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Sri Lanka

From exploring the cultural wonders of Sigiriya to relaxing on the golden shores of Mirissa, Sri Lanka is the perfect place to visit for those who love nature and are interested in learning about the culture of this South Asian country.
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Why Visit Sri Lanka?

My friend walking in the ocean in Sri Lanka

This question often came up when I told people that I was traveling in Sri Lanka, so here is a simple answer to sum up my experience: Sri Lanka is like a lite version of India. If you are intimidated by India, Sri Lanka is the place to be.

The best part about the country is the unmatched hospitality I have received while traveling there. The locals are some of the friendliest people you will ever meet. How friendly? Well, while walking around the central market in Kandy, everyone was greeting me all the time, inviting me into their stores, and even giving me free fruits.

A local asked me photo at Kandy Central Market

Apart from the fact that the people are unbelievably friendly, Sri Lanka has a lot of other things to offer as well, such as going on an elephant safari, whale-watching, hiking, temple hopping, and trying all the awesome food.

How to Get to Sri Lanka?

A boat on a beach in Sri Lanka

The best way to get here is to fly into Colombo. There are several airlines that connect the US, Europe, and Asia to Sri Lanka. From the US or the EU, there is no direct flight, but you can fly to Sri Lanka with transit in either the Middle East via Emirates, Qatar, or Turkish Airlines or East Asia via Japan, Korean Airlines, or Cathay Pacific.

If you are in Asia, it will be easier and cheaper for you, as AirAsia offers quite a few routes to Colombo via cities like Kuala Lumpur, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Seoul, and many more.

If you are looking for the cheapest flight for your trip, I would recommend browsing through Skyscanner or Expedia to find a cheap flight from where you live to Colombo that best fits your itinerary.

How to Get Around Sri Lanka?

train tracks in Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka is very well-connected by trains and buses. Some areas are a little harder to reach, either due to its mountainous terrain or military checkpoints, but nothing is impossible. Trains are a good way to slow-travel through the countryside, while buses are fast but can be hectic at times.

By Trains

A local train in Sri Lanka

I had the opportunity to take both modes of transportation, and I like them both. The scenery from the trains was outstanding, especially the route from Kandy to Ella (a must-do), where the train goes through tea plantations hugging along the side of cliffs all the way.

One of the routes I would highly recommend you to take the train is the one that connects Kandy and Ella. The railway goes through some of the most stunning landscapes in Sri Lanka, going up and down the hills of Ella, through the tea plantations, and across scenic bridges. It is slow but extremely scenic and rewarding.

Inside a local train in Sri Lanka

Seats are free for all, so be sure to get on the train first to get the best window seats. This way, you can see the view, or you can sit at the door of the train, as I did 😉.

One of the problems with the train is that it does not offer online booking, so you will have to get the ticket the day before and visit the train station to do so. Be sure to spare a few hours if you are planning to travel by train the next day.

Me standing by the door in a moving train in Sri Lanka

If you are short on time and would rather be reassured by reserving the tickets before you arrive, then you will need to go through an online agency like 12go.com.

Important: If you decide to go this route, you will need to book the ticket with them 30 days before your arrival date so that they will have enough time to process your tickets for you.

Within this itinerary, you will have to take 2 trains: one from Colombo to Habarana and another from Kandy to Ella. For the train from Colombo to Habarana, you will have to go to Fort Railway Station in Colombo. You can reserve the ticket at the kiosk in front of the train station, located in the white building.

For the one connecting Kandy to Ella, visit Kandy Railway Station the day before and get your tickets.

For more details on Sri Lankan trains and their schedules, visit: Train travel in Sri Lanka by Seat61.com.

By Buses

The local bus in Habarana

Local Buses are fast, cheap, and quite reliable, but they can get a little hectic as they pick up more and more people along the way. Many times, I have had to squeeze myself and my backpack together to make room for other passengers. These buses are also quite old and lack air conditioning, so keep in mind the number of people and the humidity before getting on one.

Personally, it was part of the experience of traveling in Sri Lanka, and it was fascinating for me to see how 90% of the people actually travel in the country.

The price is often very cheap with local buses; some are as low as 0.15 USD per ticket. They do have a rough schedule that is almost always not followed, changes often, and is impossible to find reliable information online. Therefore, it is best to ask your hotels/hostels to help you organize one, or you can just flag them down from the main road.

For local buses, I would recommend getting one for shorter routes, such as the route from Habarana to Polonnaruwa, where you can simply go to the main road and easily flag down the B294 bus.

There are also modern private company buses that connect big cities together, like the one from Welligama to Colombo Airport via the Southern Express Highway, which you can take if you end your trip in Mirissa.

For private buses, the price doubles that of the local buses going the same route but is still more affordable than taking a taxi.

By tuk-tuk

This is only possible when you want to travel somewhere nearby, like visiting a tourist attraction near Colombo or taking a day trip to Sigiriya from Habarana. For big cities like Colombo and Kandy, you can easily flag a tuk-tuk from the road to get to places, or you can hire a driver for the day via your hostel/hotel.

For going to places further away, such as visiting Sigiriya or Polonnaruwa from Habarana, you will need to hire the driver for the entire day. The price will depend on how far you are going and how long they will have to wait for you. There is no fixed price, so negotiate hard when they offer you the first price.

Make sure to also agree upon a price before you get on one to prevent any disagreement about the price at the end.

When to Visit Sri Lanka?

Sunrise in Ella

Since Sri Lanka is an island with a variety of terrains, the weather is all over the place no matter which season you are here during. October - March is considered to be a high season, and if you are like me and want to avoid high season at all costs, April is a good time to be here because the high season ended a month before. Not only will you get discounted accommodation prices due to the low season, but you will also have the attractions to yourself.

When I was in Tangalle, I had the guesthouse and a deserted beach to myself because no one was there.

Temperature varies a bit from place to place. In the hill country, the temperature could go as low as 20°C, whereas all the other places will maintain their temperature at 30+°C.

Which tourist SIM card is best for Sri Lanka?

WiFi at hostels and guesthouses is not reliable at all in Sri Lanka. So, if you require a constant connection, I would suggest getting a local SIM card to stay connected throughout the country.

I got a 2GB one from Mobitel, and the 4G coverage is good in big cities (Colombo and Kandy), but in small towns, it often diverts back to 3G or EDGE. It's not the fastest but quite manageable. Definitely better than relying on just WIFI alone.

You can find more information about the local SIM card here: Sri Lanka Prepaid Data SIM Card.

Tips: To stay connected with people at home, be sure that you have a VPN, such as ProtonVPN, installed before traveling. It's FREE, and you can gain access to services that may be blocked in certain countries.

Daily Budget

1 daily budget 0.5 daily budget -1 daily budget -1 daily budget -1 daily budget

This place is quite affordable compared to all the other countries in the world. If you are planning a trip here, you can expect to spend around $25 - $45 USD per day per person, which should include accommodation and three meals.

Please keep in mind that these are suggested daily budgets based on my own style of travel, which leans more towards the budget side of things. If you aim to stick to this budget, anticipate sleeping in dormitories, dining out only occasionally, and being comfortable with the cheapest and most convenient modes of transportation, which often involve a considerable amount of walking.

What to Pack for Sri Lanka?

As you may already know, I am an advocate of light traveling, and indeed, packing light for a journey like this is a unique art form. Here are some packing tips for your upcoming trip to Sri Lanka:

  • Walking/Hiking Shoes: With all the walking and possible hiking during your travel, a comfortable pair of shoes is a must. I recommend the Timberland 3-Eye Classic Boat Shoes that are my go-to pair for long strolls and hikes.
  • Breathable Shirts: Given the potential for hot weather, pack a few breathable shirts for your outdoor adventures.
  • Shorts/Jeans: Anticipate lots of walking during your travels? Be sure to pack some breathable shorts and a pair of Levi's jeans for when the weather cools. For women, leggings are excellent for both hot and cold climates, so consider packing some as well.
  • Outer Shell Jacket: An outer shell jacket is great for windy or rainy conditions. I highly recommend the Columbia Watertight Jacket (for women). It's lightweight, breathable, and even comes in a cool orange color.
  • Microfiber Towel: A Microfiber towel is the ideal backpacker's towel due to its lightness, quick drying, and compressibility.
  • Swim Suits: A swim trunk is a must-pack item if you are planning to visit Sri Lanka in the summer, just in case there is a body of water you can jump in.
  • Camera: You should also pack a good camera for your trip so that you can capture all the beautiful experiences you might have. I recommend the Sony a7R V camera together with the Sony 24-70mm f2.8 GM II lens, which is probably the highest-performance camera and lens combination you can get right now.
  • Power Bank: Keep your electronics charged on the go with a 20,000+ mAh Power Bank.
  • Water Bottle: The Hydro Flask Trail Water Bottle is a great insulated water bottle to have with you in cities or on hiking trails. It is lightweight and can keep your water cold or warm for more than 12 hours. It's a total game-changer.
  • Universal Adapter: You'll need just one universal adapter to plug in your electronics in any country you visit.
  • Packing Cubes: Packing Cubes will help you save space in your backpack and keep all your belongings organized.
  • Daypack: The Langly Alpha Globetrotter is my go-to everyday camera backpack. It's large enough to carry all my travel gear, and it comes with plenty of slots and pouches. Plus, it's stylish as hell!
  • Large Backpack: You will need a large backpack to carry all of your stuff. I recommend the Osprey Atmos AG 65L backpack. With excellent weight distribution and a lifetime guarantee, you can't go wrong with Osprey.

For more information on what I pack in my backpack for this trip, check out: My Packing List: 60 Travel Essentials.

Is it Safe to Travel to Sri Lanka?

Due to the recent tragic event in Colombo in April 2019, the safety of Sri Lanka has been tarnished due to the attack on Christian Churches and some 5-star hotels that left over 300 people dead. It's not an easy reality to comprehend, but safety concern for traveling in Sri Lanka is now a legitimate question that needs to be answered.

For most of this itinerary, you will be mostly in a safe area with only a few days in Colombo where the tragic bombing happened. Big cities are always riskier with petty thefts and terrorist attacks like this, but once you are out and about, you should be fine.

So, would I recommend you cancel your trip to Sri Lanka? I would say, if you are only planning to visit, maybe it is best to postpone your trip for now until everything settles. If you have already booked everything, I would say you can still stick to your plan but avoid being in a crowded area during public holiday seasons.

All in all, the chance that you will witness something horrific, like in April 2019, is pretty low. However, it is best not to ignore it and stay vigilant.